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Click to Enlarge
18 Piece SABURR TOOTH Fish Carving Set
Order Below
Burr Shape Descriptions
 A-
3/4" x 1 1/4" Extra Course Ball Nose 1/4" Shaft
The ball nose burrs are two burrs in one - the rounded tip
shapes like a sphere and the flat sides shape like a cylinder.
A good all around rough shaping burr I use to bulk out habitat
components quickly (driftwood, coral, rocks and bases).
The aggressive nature of this large burr removes excess stock
quickly and will not clog up on
green wood
or tree bark like other grits will. If you enjoy free
form carving - allowing your imagination to shape the wood block
as you go this burr is for you. I also like it as the
primary shaping burr in my CopyCarver when used with a matching
stylus (available on CopyCarver.com). The round tip shapes
the fish while the flat sides cut out the profile to the pattern
used. Again a 2-in-1 cutter. This burr is also
available in Course (green colored) but since I don't see a
significant difference in the final wood surface afterwards to
warrant its slower carving speed I prefer the extra course
version instead. When I am bulking out a carving my
favorite burrs are always the ones I don't have to wait on while
they work. The real fun for me comes when I am carving
with a burr that performs out there on the edge just ahead of me
the entire time. And that's where this burr loves to go
when you run up the rpms and let it carve. And as with any
carving burr - the more aggressive the cutting surface the more
difficult it is to control at low speed. At low speed the
cutting edges are more likely to snag the wood fibers on the
surface and pull the burr in the direction of the motor
rotation. Forcing you to fight for control the entire time
your using it. At high speed the same burr is spinning too
quickly to snag and the aggressive burr just slides on the wood
surface vaporizing everything in its path never really getting
any traction to pull in one direction or another, allowing you
effortless control in any direction. A good analogy would
be to compare it to a car sitting on a jack stand with the
transmission in gear running at part throttle on a dirt road.
If you were to knock that car off the stands the tires would
grip the road surface instantly and launch the car forward
dragging you behind it. Same scenario, only now the cars
engine is racing at full throttle before you knock it off the
stand. The tires hit the ground spinning so fast they cant
get a grip to launch the car forward and it just sits there as
if hovering over the road surface as the tires spin at
full speed spraying a steady stream of gravel as the tires tear
into the road surface.. The PSI (pounds per
square inch) of downward force in both examples are the
same - yet only the second example tore into the road surface
while eliminating the forward thrust. So back to wood -
the high rpms keep you above the grip threshold of an aggressive
burr, allowing it to just sit there and spin while the friction
surface of the burr tears into the wood surface with ease.
With power carving speed always dictates the level of control
and cutting performance. The more aggressive the burr the
faster it needs to spin for you to retain directional control.
Also the larger or more aggressive the burr the more horsepower
you need to maintain that speed. That never changes no
matter what brand or type of carving burr you are using.
So if your running a low HP 15,000 - 18,000 rpm power carving
system you may want to consider the Course or Fine version of
this burr instead of the extra course. If you run a high
HP 26,000 rpm Mastercarver or similar system go for the extra
course version of this burr and let it fly! You will love
the results.
 B-
3/4" x 1 1/4" Fine Ball Nose 1/4" Shaft
This is a great clean up burr to follow up the rough shaping
done with burr "A". The fine grit surface can be run at
low speeds with excellent control. Held at a 45 degree
angle the round tip can carve the same features as a 3/4" Sphere
shaped burr. Making it also two burrs in one. I also
like this burr for outlining the caudal peduncle where it flows
into the caudal fin. I can use the side of the burr to
shape the caudal fin then use the tip to create the soft outline
of the caudal peduncle without having to change burrs - again a
true two in one burr. I just started using the ball nose
shape for carving fins and like it allot. The rounded edge
eliminates any surface damage the sharp edged cylinders can
cause if your not careful while carving fins. The rounded
edges make it impossible to knick the flat surface of fins while
carving. Because it works so well I have them producing a
new line of burrs just like this one, only both ends of the burr
are rounded giving it a pill shape. I increased the barrel
size to 1" for the 1/4" shaft version and created a 3/4", 1/2"
and 3/8" version in 1/8" drive. Those will be available
here in a few weeks as a fin carving set. Only available
in Fine.
 C-
1" x 1" Extra Course Solid Cylinder Safety Tip 1/4" Shaft
I had this burr designed to replace the
1"x1" sanding drum sleeves I have used for years. At
first they produced me a carbide sleeve to slide onto the rubber
mandrel used with the sanding sleeves I was using. The
results were improved cutting speed but the vibration of the
heavier sleeve held in place by a distorted rubber mandrel was a
problem. So to eliminate the run-out condition that caused
the vibration they CNC machined a solid one piece blank and then
applied their carbide friction surface. The result is a
smooth running high speed cylinder that puts my old sanding
drums to shame. When it comes to roughing out fish bodies
I have yet to find a better burr shape than a safety tip
cylinder. The large flat cutting surface of a large
cylinder can carve a level surface better than any other burr
shape. And the control and even cutting speed are second
to none. The advantage of a cylinder shape over any other
shape is the uniform cutting speed across the entire face of the
burr.
With
each revolution the same number of cutting teeth rotate across
the surface. Unlike a
sphere, flame or taper where the number of
cutting teeth are reduced as the diameter of the burr tapers.
Reducing the number of teeth tearing at the wood surface across
the face of the burr with each revolution slows the cutting
speeds of the burr across the face. In essence creating
dead areas within the burr cutting surface. With a
cylinder, its not an issue because the shape is the same
diameter from tip to base. I cover this in detail on the Tools
and Equipment DVD Course. This burr and the 3/4" version
in 1/8" shaft are the two burrs I use most for rough shaping
fish blanks in the 6" to 24" range. Both are must have
burrs for fish carving in my opinion. The smooth top
allows me to cut in fin bases for anal and dorsal fins when
those fins are carved as part of the blank.
 D-
1" x 1" Fine Solid Cylinder Safety Tip 1/4" Shaft
Same burr as above and a perfect choice for all the same
reasons. However this burr in the Fine grit version is
more of a clean-up burr for me after doing the rough shaping
with the extra course version. And until I warmed up to
the ball nose shape for carving fins this was my main fin
carving burr for carving fins on larger carvings and habitat
vegetation. This cutting surface cuts wood quickly and
leaves behind a clean finish ready for final sanding. The
uniform height of each carbide hair reduces the amount of
bruising and tear out to the wood surface common with other
brands and types of burrs, making final sanding quick and easy.
 E
- 1/4" x 1 3/4" Fine Taper 1/4" Shaft
Good all around habitat burr for drilling and boring holes for
base construction and saltwater coral carvings. I can
drill various cavity shapes at different depths with this one
burr while carving saltwater base rock. Instead of using a
handful of different sized drill bits. And the results are
not as man made looking. The Fine grit bores holes quickly
and the results can be detailed without pre-sanding since the
amount of tearing is minimal. I prefer the Fine grit for
this burr only because the extra course and course versions have
too few of teeth working for me per revolution. This type
of burr is a perfect example of how a finer grit with more teeth
can out perform a more aggressive burr with fewer cutting teeth.
When it comes to small diameter burrs you will always see me
favor the fine grit over the extra course versions because of
that. Extra Course and Course cutting surfaces loose their
effectiveness when the tooth count drops to just a few teeth per
revolution.
 F-
1/2" Fine Sphere 1/4" Shaft
This burr is primarily a habitat burr, great for texturing rock
and coral. Also works well to final shape driftwood
carvings spaces where the larger ball nose burrs above cant get
into. Since this set has a the 3/4" sphere shape covered
in burr "B" this burr bridges the gap between the 3/8" and 1/4"
versions included in 1/8" shafts giving you full coverage in a
round burr from 3/4" on down to 1/4".
 G-
3/4" x 3/4" Extra Course Safety Tip Cylinder 1/8" Shaft
This burr is just a smaller version of burr "C" above. It
too replaced the 3/4" x 3/4" sanding drum sleeves I have used
for years. The one piece design runs smooth and the 3/4"
cylinder diameter is the largest of it's kind on the market in
1/8" drive. No other manufacturer offers one this large in
1/8" shaft. I prefer this burr in an 1/8" shaft over a
1/4" shaft because I use it in my Detail Pro handpiece where the
cylinder diameter is larger than the handpiece collar.
Allowing me to get in close to the carving surface without the
handpiece hitting the surface and affecting the carving angle.
This same burr in a 1/4" shaft version is slightly smaller than
the larger handpiece handle diameter. Which prevents you
from laying the side of the burr on the carving surface while
carving. The handpiece hits the surface first forcing you
to carve at an angle where only the upper half of the cylinder
can reach the wood surface. When at all possible I always
purchase rough out burr shapes larger than the diameter of the
handpiece I plan to use it in. Allowing me to use the
entire surface of the burr without the handpiece getting in the
way. As I mentioned above, this is one of the most used
burrs in my studio. Only because it can run in my smaller
Detail Pro handpiece. I also have this same burr in Course
version (green) for those using smaller handheld rotary motors.
The smaller HP units you see sold in home centers and hardware
stores cant drive the extra course version of this burr, the
drag is too much for those little motors. You will find
that course version on the full line page.
 H
- 3/4" x 3/4" Fine Safety Tip Cylinder 1/8" Shaft
Same as burr "D" above, just in a finer surface. Used
as a clean up burr following the extra course version after
initial rough out. And makes an excellent fin carving
burr. Burrs "C - D - G - H" are without question the most
used burrs in the shop.
I - 1/2" x 1/2" Fine Safety Tip Cylinder 1/8" Shaft
 Same
as the above cylinders - used the same as above, just for
smaller fish carvings. I use this burr in place of the
3/4" version for doing smaller fish under 6" for shaping the
body and for carving smaller fins. Since the bulk of my
work is larger fish this burr isn't used as much as the larger
versions. But I wouldn't be without it, because when you
need it nothing else will do. A great burr for doing
smaller saltwater reef fish. I don't use the course or
extra course versions because at this smaller size the tooth
count drops bellow being an efficient cutter by my standards.
The Fine grit will out carve the Course and Extra Course in
speed and finish at this size.
 J-
3/8" x 1/2" Fine Safety Tip Cylinder 1/8" Shaft
Same as "I" above only slightly smaller for smaller fish
carvings. Small fish body shaping and fins. Another
great burr for doing smaller saltwater reef fish and baitfish.
 K
- 1/4" x 3/4" Fine Safety Tip Cylinder 1/8" Shaft
Again, same as above - just for even smaller fish yet.
This is the rough out burr I use for baitfish and lapel pins.
It also comes into play in blocking out head features after the
initial rough out. Since it removes wood so effortlessly I
can quickly sketch in the head features and frame in key areas
for detail carving later. I also like this burr for
shaping in detail features in rocks and driftwood before
switching over to the Micro Carver and detail burrs.
 L
- 3/8" Flame Fine 1/8" Shaft
Strictly a habitat workhorse. I use it allot to shape out
habitat components.
M- 1/4" Taper Fine 1/8" Shaft
Another habitat workhorse and fin slot cutter / tuner.
N - 1/4" Fine Taper Extended Shaft Mouth Carver 1/8"Shaft
I
designed this burr to clean out the mouth on fish carvings
without having to remove the upper head or lower jaw. This
burr combined with a Detail Pro handpiece can reach into tight
places never before possible. The shaft of this burr has
been increased to 3/16" above the 1/8" collet seat for
stability. Overall length is 3 1/4". As with any
extended shaft burr, this burr is for low speed use and should
never be run over 8,000 rpms. At low rpms the Fine cutting
head easily cleans out wood from the mouth interior. This
burr is a real time saver and only available here. A
larger 1/4" drive version is in production now and will be
available shortly for larger fish carvings.
O-
3/4" Rotary Saw Fine 1/8" Shaft
This is a great burr for cutting in fin slots and blocking out
features in rocks. The cutting path of the Fine grit is in
most cases an exact match to the thickness of the fins I insert
often. It tracks straight making it easy to cut clean
straight fin slots.
 P-
1/2" Rotary Saw Fine 1/8" Shaft
Same as above- just a smaller version for smaller fish.
 Q-
3/8" Course Sphere 1/8" Shaft
I use this burr often with the smaller version below to
clear excess wood from the mouth interior prior to using the
extended shaft burr above. The Course surface runs cooler
than the Fine version making it ideal for boring and hollowing
areas that often burn up ruby burrs. This burr is also an
excellent habitat burr as well for blocking in detail features
prior to final detail carving. Both smaller sizes are
great for carving corals and fine tuning driftwood features.
 R-
1/4" Course Sphere 1/8" Shaft
Same uses as above - just a smaller version.
Click to Enlarge
18 Piece SABURR TOOTH Fish Carving Set $239.00
Order Below
9 Piece Basic SABURR TOOTH Shaping Burr Set
$139.50
See above descriptions
Order Below
4 Piece SABURR TOOTH 1/4" Drive Starter Set
$72.00
See above descriptions
Order Below
4 Piece SABURR TOOTH 1/8" Drive Starter Set
$54.00
See above descriptions
Order Below
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Fish Carving Burr
Sets |
Price |
Order |
|
18 Piece SABURR TOOTH Fish Carving Set
(Shown Above) |
$239.00 |
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|
9 Piece Basic SABURR TOOTH Shaping Burr Set
(Shown Above) |
$139.50 |
|
|
4 Piece SABURR TOOTH 1/4" Drive Starter Set
(Shown Above) |
$72.00 |
|
|
4 Piece SABURR TOOTH 1/8" Drive Starter Set
(Shown Above) |
$54.00 |
|
| |
|
Individual Carving
Burrs shown above |
| 3/4" x 1 1/4" Extra Course Ball Nose 1/4" Shaft |
$21.50 |
|
| 3/4" x 1 1/4" Fine Ball Nose 1/4" Shaft |
$21.50 |
|
| 1" x 1" Extra Course Solid Cylinder Safety Tip
1/4" Shaft |
$18.50 |
|
| 1" x 1" Fine Solid Cylinder Safety Tip 1/4" Shaft
|
$18.50 |
|
| 1/4" x 1 3/4" Fine Taper 1/4" Shaft |
17.50 |
|
| 1/2" Fine Sphere 1/4" Shaft |
18.50 |
|
| 3/4" x 3/4" Extra Course Safety Tip Cylinder 1/8"
Shaft |
14.95 |
|
| 3/4" x 3/4" Fine Safety Tip Cylinder 1/8" Shaft |
14.95 |
|
| 1/2" x 1/2" Fine Safety Tip Cylinder 1/8" Shaft |
14.95 |
|
| 3/8" x 1/2" Fine Safety Tip Cylinder 1/8" Shaft |
14.95 |
|
| 1/4" x 3/4" Fine Safety Tip Cylinder 1/8" Shaft |
14.95 |
|
| 3/8" Flame Fine 1/8" Shaft |
14.95 |
|
| 1/4" x 3/4" Taper Fine 1/8" Shaft |
14.95 |
|
| 1/4" x 1/2" Extended Shaft Fine Flame 1/8" Shaft |
21.95 |
|
| 3/4" Rotary Saw Fine 1/8" Shaft |
14.95 |
|
| 1/2" Rotary Saw Fine 1/8" Shaft |
14.95 |
|
| 3/8" Course Sphere 1/8" Shaft |
14.95 |
|
| 1/4" Course Sphere 1/8" Shaft |
14.95 |
|
14 Piece Fish Carving Detail Burr Set
Genuine diamond, ruby and sapphire carving points for ultra
fine detailing, excellent control & smooth finish.
Unlike the imported imposters that have flooded the market in
the last few years these burrs are the real deal. Burrs
B-J are all made in Switzerland and machined from one piece
surgical stainless steel free of welds and feature 5 layers of
abrasive coatings. Ensuring these burrs cut like new for
years. Speed ratings are the highest in the industry for
3/32nd burrs. Speed rating for each listed below.
These are the only burrs I trust at high speed in my Micro
Carver. Using the low quality burrs over 20,000 rpms risk
personal injury and damage to your Micro Carver handpiece
bearings. When it comes to detail burrs quality
matters. Dont be fooled by the cheap knock off sets.
Buy a quality set for high speed detail carving and a junk set
for those times when you need to carve over fillers or other
questionable surfaces with your flex shaft machine. Never
run import knockoff burrs in a micro carver. Burrs A, L,
M, N, and O are all American Made and also rated for Micro
Carver use. These are all the burr shapes I use to carve final
detail in fish and habitat carvings.
|
Description / Use |
Shaft Size / Max RPM |
Price Ea. |
Order |
A - 1/4" Foredom Ceramcut Cylinder
Used for carving fin rays, head features and habitat
detail. |
3/32"
45,000 RPM's |
$2.50 |
|
B - 1/4" Swiss Diamond Cylinder
Used for carving small fish bodies, lapel pins, fin
rays, head features and habitat detail. |
3/32"
45,000 RPM's |
$19.80 |
|
C - 3/32" Swiss Diamond Cylinder
Used for carving small fish bodies, lapel pins, fin
rays, head features and habitat detail. |
3/32"
45,000 RPM's |
$5.65 |
|
D - 3/16" Swiss Ruby Double Ball Nose
Great burr for carving small fin animation, rays, rock
and coral detail. 2 Burrs in 1 |
3/32"
30,000 RPM's |
$8.95 |
|
E - 3/16" Swiss Ruby Taper
Used for refining head and mouth detail and general
clean up in tight areas |
3/32"
30,000 RPM's |
$8.95 |
|
F - 3/16" Swiss Sapphire (Course) Taper
Used for refining head and mouth detail and general
clean up in tight areas |
3/32"
30,000 RPM's |
$8.95 |
|
G - 1/4" Swiss Ruby Ball
This is my favorite burr for detailing fin rays and
corals. As it wears it just keeps getting better. |
3/32"
30,000 RPM's |
$9.95 |
|
H - 1/4" Swiss Sapphire (Course) Ball
The sapphire line is slightly courser than the
ruby's. I like to use this burr for carving in
hardwood's followed with a ruby. It doesn't load
like worn ruby will with time. |
3/32"
30,000 RPM's |
$9.95 |
|
I - 1/8" Swiss Diamond Ball
Fin rays and habitat detail. |
3/32"
45,000 RPM's |
$7.10 |
|
J - 1/16" Swiss Diamond Ball
Very small fins rays and insect detail. Also works
great for engraving on glass. |
3/32"
45,000 RPM's |
$3.00 |
|
K - 3/32" Carvers Drill
Head detail, fin slots, undercutting gill covers and
cutting out vacuum formed plastic stencils. |
3/32"
45,000 RPM's |
$6.50 |
|
L - 1/8" Carvers Drill
Head detail, fin slots, undercutting gill covers and
cutting out vacuum formed plastic stencils. |
1/8"
45,000 RPM's |
$6.50 |
|
M - Small Aluminum Oxide Stone Taper
Used for grinding NiChrome wire fish scale shapes. |
1/8"
20,000 RPM's |
$2.75 |
|
N - Medium Aluminum Oxide Stone Taper
Used for grinding NiChrome wire fish scale shapes. |
1/8"
20,000 RPM's |
$2.75 |
|
| 14 Piece Fish Carving Detail Set
(All 14 Burrs shown above) |
Assorted |
$89.00 |
|
20 Piece Import Diamond Burr Set - $9.00
This is one of those knock off sets I mentioned
above. The quality is poor, the shaft sizes all vary
slightly, they never spin perfectly true and the friction
coating wears away quickly. I keep a set on the bench for
those times when I need to texture over a filler like Bondo or
Magic Sculpt and I don't want to contaminate one of my quality
burrs shown above. I will slip one of these into a Detail
Pro handpiece on my flex shaft machine and carve away. If
I ruin the burr I am out 50 cents instead of 10 dollars or more.
You never want to use one of these burrs in a high speed micro
carver. The high rpms could fold over the soft metal
shafts or the vibration could damage the handpiece bearings.
Save them as sacrificial burrs for your flex shaft machine and
use them sparingly.
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